Skincare is constantly evolving, becoming smarter with biotech, as new and exciting ingredients emerge.
We’ve all likely heard of the benefits of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, as well as how important collagen is for your skin. But while we still adore these ingredients, they aren’t the only ingredients we can enrich formulas with to get the best results.
New skincare ingredients to look out for
Discover some of the most popular new skincare ingredients:
Adaptogens
Adaptogenic substances are herbs, roots and plant substances used in herbal medicinal practices to help manage the effects of stress on the body. Non-toxic, adaptogens are thought to help bring about stabilisation in the body.
The ‘adaptogenic effect’ is not typically accepted in pharmacological or clinical settings due to a lack of research studies. Still, adaptogens are thought to be able to help restore the body to its natural balance.
Adaptogenic skincare is used to help repair the skin barrier and maintain skin homeostasis, drawing upon the practices of Traditional Chinese Medicine. Common adaptogens used in skincare include ashwagandha, ginseng, reishi, and cordyceps.
At UpCircle, we embrace adaptogens in our Conditioner Crème with turkey tail mushroom (Trametes versicolor) extract. While we’re talking about haircare, this product is anti-inflammatory, which also helps to calm the skin on your scalp.
Made with upcycled orange peel wax, a by-product of the orange juice industry, this conditioner helps to nourish both scalp skin and hair. Orange peel wax contains botanical lipids which act as emollients to protect, soften and moisturise the skin and hair. Rich in vitamin C, orange peel wax can improve hair strength, reducing the likelihood of breakage and split ends.
Probiotics
When it comes to skincare, probiotics can either be live beneficial bacteria, or ferments – non-living but bioactive parts of probiotics. Natural probiotics, ferments help to nourish your skin’s microbiome.
Fermented ingredients in skincare are all natural, meaning that they are derived from nature. However, it’s important to note that this doesn’t necessarily mean that they are plant-based. Fermented mushrooms are quite a common fermented skincare ingredient and are hailed for their natural anti-inflammatory qualities, as well as being a powerful antioxidant. Other common fermented ingredients in skincare include rice and ginseng root.
Advances in biotechnology have made it possible for ingredients like rice, algae, mushrooms, and plant extracts to be fermented to boost their power. These ingredients are broken down using microorganisms in a controlled, scientific environment.
Here’s a flavour of what benefits your skin could reap from fermented ingredients:
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Fermented rice, soy, and algae: These extracts all work well to boost hydration, antioxidants, and elasticity in the skin. You’ll probably find them most in moisturisers and cleansers.
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Retinol: This ingredient can be formulated through microbial fermentation, with identical efficacy to non-biotech-produced retinol, as a sustainable alternative to synthetic retinol.
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Squalane: Different to squalene, a moisturising lipid naturally produced in your skin, squalane is a highly refined botanical oil with a structure that’s similar to lipids. It can be produced using biotech and fermenting sugarcane, making it suitable for vegans.
Excitingly, we have a new product that we’ve been working on, where you’ll be able to make the most of these ingredients. Stay tuned for more information!
Plant stem cells
High-tech but nature-powered, plant stem cells are used in skincare for their anti-ageing effects. It’s time for the science lesson – plant stem cells are undifferentiated (specific cell type) cells that can self-renew and develop into specialised cells.
In skincare, live stem cells aren’t used, but rather plant stem cell extracts, which are rich in antioxidants, peptides, amino acids, and growth factors. These extracts are obtained through biotechnology, then formulated into serums, creams, or essences.
Working to protect the skin from environmental stress, plant stem cells are an antioxidant. They can stimulate the skin’s natural regeneration process, which encourages healthier, fresher-looking skin.
Hypochlorous acid
Back to the science lesson, hypochlorous acid is a naturally occurring molecule produced by your white blood cells. It helps to fight off harmful bacteria, reduce levels of inflammation, and heal wounds.
In skincare, it's used in stabilised topical form – typically as a mist, spray, or serum – where it mimics the body’s immune response and supports calm, clear, resilient skin.
Cleansing the skin without stripping it of its natural oils, hypochlorous acid is a non-drying antiseptic. It supports your skin’s natural microbiome by fighting off harmful bacteria, leading to clearer, brighter skin.
Polyglutamic acid
A type of peptide, polyglutamic acid is water-soluble and derived from fermented soybeans or other plant-based sources. It’s gaining popularity in the skincare world as it is an ultra-hydrating humectant.
Think back to hyaluronic acid and the classic statistic that it can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water. Well, polyglutamic acid can hold up to 5000 times its weight in water, meaning it’s great for giving your skin some added hydration. As a humectant, this ingredient also helps to lock that moisture into the skin.
Bisabolol
Bisabolol is a naturally occurring compound found in German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) and other plants. It’s the ingredient that gives chamomile its well-known anti-inflammatory and calming properties.
In skincare, this ingredient helps to soothe skin and protect it from free radical damage. It effectively supports skin repair and can speed up wound healing. This makes it ideal for use on skin that's stressed or damaged.
Vegan skincare with upcycled ingredients
Our range of skin, body, and haircare products are formulated with natural ingredients designed to support and nourish every part of you. Enriched with upcycled ingredients that would otherwise go to waste, our products help the planet too.
From antioxidant blueberry extract in our Night Cream and anti-inflammatory date seeds in our Body Cream, to chai spices in our Cleansing Bars, each product is thoughtfully formulated for results and environmental impact.
Discover our full collection.